Category: Girona

The CorreFoc is a feature of Girona’s annual city festival known as the St Narcis Festival in late October. It’s several days of fun, festivities, various cultural activities and the mayhem that’s Correfoc. Loosely translated into ‘fire-runs’ but charmingly referred to as ‘running the devil out of Girona’. They pop up in various forms in many Catalan and Valencian festivals. Participants dress as devils and light fireworks which are fixed onto devil’s pitchforks. Spectators also follow them closely, maybe too closely.

Visitors and onlookers might like to reinterpret that as something along the lines of ‘I’d better get out of the way of this ensemble of amateur arsonists’. No one it seems throughout the whole spectacle has probably ever heard of the ‘Firework Safety Code’ that we abide by when messing around with fireworks in the UK.

An unmissable event in my opinion, it starts late, around 10pm within the confines of the old town, and charts a route that eventually ends up near the university buildings (the old part). We usually catch it somewhere just after the starting point, like near the steps of the old convent La Merce. Street lights are extinguished, which signals the beginning. As part of the large participant/spectator entourage, drummers start a slow rhythmic beat. Also in a pyrotechnic tandem joined by loud bangs, and red and white flashes.

Seeing this marauding band approaching you along the dark, narrow, cobbled alleys shrouded in a red haze is quite a sight. It’s also wise to move away, to retreat up the steps of La Merce to a safer vantage point. Thinking we were okay up here we were joined by this guy in green.

The official participants are dressed in various devil-themed overalls, masks, headgear and goggles, for obvious protection from the sparks and the smoke. A necessity but with such little attention to the safety of the constant whirring fireworks, bangs and booms makes it look wholly unorganised and unsafe. Here are another two characters who look like they’re enjoying themselves.

This riotous smoke-filled rabble continued on their merry way for at least another 45 minutes. Long after passing, the old town alleyways still reverberate and echo to their distant sounds.

Whilst it hasn’t exactly been a barrel of laughs in most places around the world, the ban on most things cultural here in Girona has surely run its course. Even some of the long standing music festivals have woken from their enforced slumber and are promoting themselves. Not that any real promotion is necessary as I’ve read that their concerts have been selling like hotcakes. 

The ‘get out and enjoy’ genes have reawoken and rightly so, the thought of getting out enjoying yourself is kickstarting the road back to a Covid-compliant normality. Quite how that all pans out for the summer season remains to be seen. The memories and experience of last summer linger to some extent, kids especially are yearning for as normal a summer as possible.

So, because of current restrictions and being conditioned to a life of monastic seclusion, I was just a little surprised to see posters popping up all over town advertising Girona’s annual flower festival, Temps de Flors. It’s always been a high point of the year, an expectant time when we anticipate better weather and temperatures. A kind of precursor to the many other cultural and culinary delights that follow.

That’s another oddity this year, the yo-yo weather of late. Easter-week saw a run of warm weather to be replaced with a climate more akin to winter as temperatures see-sawed wildly. As a long entrenched resident this is not what I’ve been used to, having one eye on the heating bills, which normally have a downward trend by now.

So it’s nice to hear that the local powers that be have decided to hold the flower festival again, but the rumours are, on a much lesser scale. In normal times Girona’s old town, where most of the action occurs is overflowing with visitors from far and wide, even France. 

The flower festival has become a real victim of its own success. So much so that we never went ourselves until the last few days because  of the crowds. The local town hall (ajuntament) graciously supplies free maps which feature all the exhibits and stopping points, which runs into over a hundred.

It’s boomtime for Girona’s cafes and restaurants, but old town residents can’t wait until it’s over. The chief complaints being that simply going about your daily business is difficult. If you’ve ever visited you’d know that the maze of narrow streets means bottlenecks and a snail’s pace of navigating all the important bits worthy of seeing.

One perennial example is the Arab Baths (Banys Arabs), where constant queuing is the norm all day long. They use a one-way system, and a chance to enter for free to see the interior floral displays. Ordinarily there’s a small entrance fee. Just around the corner is probably the most anticipated exhibit, the steps leading up to Girona’s Cathedral. It’s quite a large blank canvas, and a talking point amongst locals as to how good it is compared to previous years. This photo is from 2019.

It’s an opportune time to see inside many private courtyards and interior spaces otherwise closed off to public view. That includes Girona’s air-raid shelter, near Placa Catalunya, built during the time of Spain’s civil war (!936-39). Whilst it doesn’t wow in the floral stakes it’s one for the curious visitor. 

Another exhibit, now sadly crossed off the route map due to redevelopment is an old former cinema at the rear of the town hall. This building remained boarded up, unused throughout the year, only to open during the festival. The seating areas were long gone, as was its roof space, with just rusty girders showing off its nakedness. Sometimes it featured dramatic art and floral installations with the subtle addition of haunting music. In 2015 it had as part of its perplexing theme, these hanging chairs. 

Another popular stopping point is the long expansive steps at Pujada de Sant Domenec that lead up to the small intimate church of St Marti. Opinions differ as to whether the best view is from down below or from up above. Do pop into the church to view their displays.

There’s a lot to get around if you’re just here for one day, comfortable shoes will help and a bottle of water as bars stay busy all day.

What better way to get into a subject like coffee than having one. Cue the Nespresso machine as it grunts and pours me a no.10 strength cup.

So many ways you can have it, we went in search of a decent cup of Joe. Locals seem to have their favourite cafe for their morning break or lunch. In a rush? then have a tallat/cortado (espresso).

The usual cafe scene here is ordinarily unspectacular. The majority serve up a decent beverage. Count yourself lucky if you find one with outdoor tables that catch the sun. Or, go inside for bland decor and a noisy TV blaring out the latest celebrity scandal. The rapid fire chat just adds further irritation.

My normal safe choice is a cafe amb llet / cafe con leche (coffee with milk). If you’re from the UK/USA cup sizes are smaller here, but then again you’re only paying less than 2€. Recently because of Covid more have been offering takeaways. Here again, cup sizes are small. Don’t expect anything the same size as in Starbucks. I really think someones missing a trick here.

Another recurring gripe is whenever I get served a coffee it’s always lukewarm, which makes me drink it quicker before it gets cold. I’m well aware you can ask for hot milk when you order, but I’m human and I forget.

Over the last few years the coffee scene has woken from its long slumber with some fresh new places-mostly in Girona’s old town. Hard to tell if it’s local owners with new ideas, but some are run by former foreign cyclists. The whole coffee and cycling thing is becoming almost symbiotic, frequented by a cadre of professional foreign riders who call Girona home. Handy meeting places too, and get your caffeine fix for that next hill climb.

Here’s what the two of us found, all these are in pedestrianised areas so no noisy traffic to ruin your experience.

Buttercup, Nou del Teatre, 2 (now closed-has become a restaurant)

I pass here a lot and often think it might be hard to notice this place down a narrow alley. Thoughtfully they’ve positioned a sign in the main square (Placa del Vi). Split into two seating areas the large minimalistic theme is on point, with murky blue walls and high ceilings. Extra large windows with a long bar set rather low, with small wood stools that wouldn’t look out of place in a kids nursery. The additional utilitarian table and chair sets fill the floor space politely. All complemented by a buttercup yellow (I presume) padded wall feature. A single, long wooden table dominates the second space which also features a small shop area. Nice but not overloaded front window display of homemade cakes and cookies to tempt you in. Remember to order at the front counter first. Food and drinks menus have an English translation, the brunch menu (18€) would have got my vote if I’d been hungrier.

Charging points? Limited spread of electric sockets and no clear indication if you can use them freely. Slightly tinny music emanated from the open kitchen-a nice smooth jazz via well positioned speakers (none) would’ve been ideal for our Sunday morning visit.

Judge the beans. We had a regular coffee/milk and a cappuccino, both 2.20€ ea. Small mug sizes served on a clay plate, no visible option for larger sizes. Perfectly fine but again, lukewarm.

Piece of cake? Oh yes, loosen that belt notch. We had a peanut butter and jelly muffin (2.80€), and a vanilla and cinnamon croissant pudding served with berry compote and creme fraiche (7.50€). Final bill 14,70€

Verdict. A heavenly escape for work from home millennials.

Coffee and Greens, Rambla de la Libertad, 25

Friends who’d been here moaned about it being too draughty when the entrance door slides open. On my last visit we sat at the rear which looks out onto the river Onyar. That visit was spoiled by a workman inside drilling. This time we went with a clean slate. The not too wide frontage probably explains their in-your-face window full of what they offer. Dog friendly too so we took our two mutts.

Urban dwellers will like the honest, stark interior, lots of wood, steel and bare brick. Nice touch is an indoor parking spot for your precious bike.

Not enough customers for outdoor tables at the time of our visit.

Charging points? Good number of them are spaced about.

Judge the beans. We had an iced caramel latte (4€) and a Large latte (3.20€). Nice large cup for my latte, but yes, you’ve guessed it, lukewarm. Good news, someone’s listening, they offer a small and large option on many drinks. 

Piece of cake? Cakes and pastries on display were largely absent, so not this time. We were more tempted by the eclectic selection of toasties, bagels, sandwiches and ‘energy bowls’. We shared the Eggs benedict (10€) and a Caprese sandwich (7€). Final bill 24,20€

Verdict. Coffee and Greens could become a new noun phrase like bread and butter.

La Fabrica (The Factory) Carrer de la Llebre, 3

Popular amongst the cycling fraternity, hidden away down a side street off C/Ciutadans. We felt out of place as a constant stream of lycra clad cyclists parked their bikes in the cycle rack they provide. Plentiful outdoor tables in a quiet spot surrounded by old town historic charm. Inside it’s well decorated, a cosy interior space I liked spending time looking over. One side has a  series of recessed alcoves, each differently and thoughtfully decorated. An honourably sufficient spread of pastries on the counter, and an enticing selection of snacks that would leave your local hipster scratching his beard trying to decide.

Charging points? Not really, maybe it doesn’t encourage laptop lingering.

Judge the beans. Flat white and my usual, a latte both 2.50€ ea. Small cups and I’m getting predictably repetitive, yes lukewarm.

Piece of cake? Go on then, just a tiny piece. We had a generous slice of the Hummingbird cake (banana, walnut, pineapple, 5€) and an avocado on toast, with red pepper, sweetcorn, feta, green sprouts topped with an egg, (8.50€). Total bill 18.50€

Verdict. Lean mean cycle hangout for beautiful bikes.

Road cycling and mountain biking are firm favourites here. It’s not just the weekend hobbyists and tourist bikers who ‘don the gear’, it extends to the refined professionals who are attracted here like bees to honey.

Girona’s surrounding topography lends itself to offering a challenging variety of routes. The weather is a mighty good adjunct too, ensuring a pleasant climate most of the year. Add the relaxed lifestyle, fine cuisine and a medieval setting, you quickly see why you’d want to bring your bicycle pump here.

The whole cycling in Girona phenomenon has created a thriving economic boost for those businesses catering to their needs. It’s not just the professional teams who base themselves here for training purposes, but the growing number of cycle tourists. So much so that I’m sure it has been a helpful boost to the property rental sector, as many choose to stay a while.

I’ve been here for almost 15 years and remember meeting an American cyclist by the name of Marti Jemison, way back about 12 years ago. I think it was when we used to frequent a local outdoor pool. Anyway, this is me reminiscing. We got real friendly as we had a mutual American friend who also lived here, but we lost touch soon after. He ran a high-end vacation business offering European road cycle tours. Apparently he was a part of the US Postal Service Pro Team in the late 1990’s, as was Lance Armstrong in 2005. By all accounts Armstrong lived in Girona for a while, somewhere within the old quarter.

Another famous English Olympic cyclist who resided here for a while was (Sir) Bradley Wiggins.

Friends of ours who run a cycling holiday business have had a real run of success and rightly so, as they’re one of the best in town. They also organise a popular annual cycling festival called Gran Fondo, which has further promoted the sport. Numerous copycats have appeared, tapping into that demand which just keeps growing. 

A good many seem to plump for basing themselves in the old town. Maybe they prefer running up and down five flights of stairs in their lycra shorts, as many old places have no lifts. It’s the road cyclists who seem to dress like they’re going bobsledding. Bicycles that cost thousands of euros that you can lift with ease, with just one finger.

Back in 2009 Girona even hosted a leg of the famous Tour de France. Race followers were here in their droves. I remember being in France on holiday and seeing it pass through Carcassonne. I waited for ages, watching various sponsors drive by distributing freebies, only to see the racers flash by so fast you would’ve missed them if you’d blinked.

Fast forward, and the wheels have kept turning but there’s been a lull in cycling activity recently during the past Covid waves, as movement restrictions were applied. Once normality has returned I can see a resurgence in all things cycling.

If you live in a city with a rich past stretching back to Roman times you’d expect a lot of tasty morsels of history to wet your appetite. It’s humbling to think that many of the old town streets and alleys I walk down have remained largely unchanged since medieval times.

Some writers have even alluded to Girona’s links to secret societies and grail legends that I’ve touched upon in other pages.

Here’s a random selection of what’s interested me so far. If you ever visit, Girona has its own Museum of History of Girona, tucked away in the old town near the Cathedral. 

Girona’s air raid shelters.

Girona was bombed during the Spanish Civil War, many times in fact. In April 1938, then again in late January 1939 and once more in February. The civilian authorities built three shelters in Girona, of which just one still survives. Situated just off Placa Catalunya and next to a childrens’ playground. Its rusty metal door and short, narrow, steeply sloping concrete roof is the only giveaway. An informational sign has been erected next to it called ‘Espais de Memoria’, with an English translation. 

This space is closed normally and only reopens during Girona’s week long flower festival, Temps de Flors, in May each year. Strangely there are no floral displays here but it’s the only opportunity to visit this underground space. Over the years I’ve probably been here 2 or 3 times. The narrow stairway leads down to the shelter, built to accommodate around 600 citizens. Stark cold concrete walls, dim lighting and an air of dampness gives a glimpse of what awaited its wartime visitors. I’m sure that with the added noise of dropping bombs must have left them petrified.

Continuing with the ‘espais de memoria’ I came across another of its street locations by chance, up in the old town near the Pujada de St Domenech. Surrounded by greenery the narrow red noticeboard sits quietly opposite a former seminary. Texts and photos explain how this building was used as a provincial prison during the dark days following Franco’s victory in the Spanish Civil War of 1936-1939. About 3,000 people passed through its doors, up until about 1942 when it moved to another location.

It was a time of harsh repression, purges and denunciations among the civilian population. Bringing a lump to my throat it made me think  of that quote ‘those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it’. 

Street names.

Nothing much exciting about street names you might think and normally they’re just another non-descript part of a city’s makeup. I find many street names here bear the name of someone famous, a writer, painter, poet, politician and so on-all in Catalan of course. Here’s the nerdy interesting part, if you’ve followed me this far. Speak to the old folk here and they’ll tell you that during Franco’s reign these same streets had other names, all in Spanish. For example the large square in front of the city hall, Placa del Vi, was until about 1975, named Plaza de Espana. I do remember seeing an old black and white photo of Franco visiting Girona in 1960, standing on the balcony of the city hall.

A lot of that was due to him outlawing spoken Catalan in public and at school. Its only refuge was at home, behind closed doors. Those were tragic times for many Spaniards, not just Catalans, and that underlying and lingering resentment is felt by many to this day. Except by the poor old street name which continues proudly displaying itself, oblivious to all and sundry.

River Onyar floods

Neatly dividing the old town area from the more modern parts of Girona there’s little to worry about. Looking down at the river Onyar from the numerous vantage points it appears very shallow, even during the winter months. Low-lying gravel banks pop out here and there, seagulls gather, standing around looking for lazy pickings. Look harder and you’ll notice fish, big fish that look like carp, basking in the imperceptible current.

So, I was surprised to hear that back in the 1960’s the river levels rose so high one winter that large parts of the old town were flooded. An old black and white photo I remember seeing shows someone sitting in a kayak paddling down La Rambla.

Snow in Girona

Winters are thankfully short here, at least they feel like that. Temperatures do drop, and during December and January you do see cars with frozen windscreens in the morning. Talk with locals and they’ll tell you snow is such a rare occurrence in Girona. A once-in-a-lifetime event that no one remembers the last time it happened. Lo and behold we had a huge dump of snow back in March 2010. It got so bad we lost power for 3 days, hot food was off the menu and candles sold out in the shops. Friends near the coast lost power for even longer, almost 3 weeks, as power lines had been downed all over the region. Schools closed for days and we had to resort to trying to stay as warm as possible. I got the impression that there’s little planning for such events here. 

Here’s one last useful Trivial Pursuit fact, Girona was the first city in Spain to get electric street lights, in 1886.

There’s nowhere on God’s earth that hasn’t experienced some level of the Covid 19 pandemic. 

There’s little point in switching on the TV news anymore, the grim reality of waking up to a daily situation where very little changes. 

Signs of any reprieve still seem distant, the dark and dreary wintery days snuffing out any shoots of hope. Am I painting a too black a  picture? Sorry, but it’s getting harder to remain a half-glass full guy.

Watching from afar at what’s been happening back in my home country, the UK is depressing enough. There are no clear winners as to who’s handling the epidemic the best, that’ll be an ongoing debate for some time.

Are we in the second or third wave here, all this talk of waves just makes me want to think of driving to the coast on the next sunny day, except I can’t currently do that. I can only move around within my county (comarca) which is Girones. My nearest beach is within a different comarca. I’d run the risk of getting stopped and fined, so I can only gawp at friends who live on the coast posting beach pics on their social media pages-lucky so and so’s.

After the first national lockdown the Madrid government allowed all the regions to determine their own responses. Each set their respective rules and controls on everyday life. For some regions like Madrid that means bars can stay open until 9pm, whereas here it’s 4.30 pm.

Here in Girona, Catalonia that means we’re still under a nighttime curfew between 10pm and 6am. That’s not such a big deal for me, just means my dogs get their last outing a bit earlier than before. But, as summer approaches and days get longer that’s going to be harder to police.

Hopefully by then it’ll be gone for good, or at least moved to a later hour.

Just this week they’ve allowed bars and restaurants to stay open a further one hour more, until 4.30pm.That’s fine if you’re lunching, but no evening trade is hitting their pockets hard. A few have resorted to offering a take away service but many have stayed shuttered. My usual bar is only open at the weekend, only afternoons, having to close on time at 4.30pm. The lack of people around during weekdays, with such brief trading times means it’s not worth opening.

Adding to their worries are the potential penalties. The local police are quick to fine any transgressors-heavily it seems. One rumour mentioned a long established restaurant in the old town being faced with a 60,000€ fine. 

Government economic help for business owners is by all accounts patchy, inadequate and too slow in coming. That’s playing out in broad daylight with many more shops closing for good and the rise in ‘For Rent’ signs (Per Llogar) popping up. A few permanently closed shops are even openly blaming Amazon for their woes. Again, current regulations mean non-essential shops must close on weekends. I can’t help thinking that the landlords of these places are still demanding normal levels of rent, which ordinarily are high in this city.

Youngsters must be climbing the walls as they still can’t go to any nightclubs or late night bars. I can’t see that continuing into the summer months but who knows. There are rumours of smaller music festivals being allowed to go ahead later in the year. Popular established venues like Cap Roig and Perelada are firm favourites of ours-a summer treat.

One thing my home country is streets ahead of Spain is in vaccinating people, but at least here they’ve started giving teachers the vaccine, unlike the UK. Mask wearing outdoors is still mandatory with some friends even double masking for extra safety. I’m also getting a bit phobic about eating indoors at restaurants, after reading up how the virus spreads in poorly ventilated spaces. On a recent outing I felt there were clearly too many diners inside, accentuating my virus-fear-factor even more.  

Lastly, to pile on the agony there’s a lot more talk about the subject of the pandemic’s impact on our social health. I wonder if that’ll be its longest legacy.

Hope you’re having a good day! 

People who visit often ask me where downtown Girona is. I reply that it doesn’t really have a distinct ‘city centre’ in the usual sense. For shopping purposes there are certain areas that have streets which contain many different shops-I’ve tried to group them in the following way (see below).

Please be aware that store opening times here might be different from your own country. Many of the smaller independent shops close for lunch, which could be for up to 3 hours. Summertime can also be a bit of a hit or miss affair as shops close for their annual holiday-usually in August. Retail related stores are all closed Sundays.

Old town & fringes.

The Rambla de la Liberatat is the wide pedestrianised street that you can access once you cross over the Pont de Pedra bridge from the new part of Girona. A lot of largely smaller shops.

At the bottom it doglegs into C/ de les Ballesteries, again the same here, with a few interspersed quirky stores.

The long, shady street that leads up to the stone bridge (from Via Jaume 1) is C/Nou. It has more than its fair share of shoe shops and opticians.

As you walk down here and just before the stone bridge turn left into C/Santa Clara. Clothes shops predominantly.

Head for the Hotel Carlamany, this more modern area has larger shops, chains like H&M, Zara and Bershka. Roads radiating out from the hotel all have stores, or head for C/Migdia.

Retail / Commercial park.

Go south on C/Barcelona all the way to the end as if you were leaving Girona until you reach a large roundabout with a McD’s. Turn off here for 3 large retail sheds. All open late (9pm).

BauHaus-DIY, tools, lighting, paints, bathrooms and garden supplies.

Decathlon- Sports clothing, footwear and equipment for all major sports.

Media Markt-All things electrical, domestic appliances, kitchen gadgets, computers and peripherals, cameras, large range of TV’s.

For shopping mall enthusiasts Girona has Espai Girones in nearby Salt with free indoor/outdoor car parking. The L- 4 bus goes there, catching it from Pl. Marques-Camps. It advertises as having 130 shops with restaurants, a multi-screen cinema and budget hotels. Open till late.

Misc. & Other Girona shops

Wala-Placa Salt,1. Poligon Mas Xirgu. Large, top brands sports clothing and equipment store.

El Corte Ingles-C/Barcelona 106, multi storey branch of this national chain with an extensive basement food hall.

Abacus-C/Barcelona 42. Stationery chain run as a co-operative, order/buy general and school books, educational toys and games, English books section. Become a free member to get discounts on every purchase.

Microgestio- Ronda Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 25. Local official Apple reseller, repairs and training.

Further out of Girona

La Roca designer outlet village near Barcelona www.larocavillage.com

Gran Jonquera Outlet & Shopping, is near the French border with about 50 shops www.granjonquera.com

Cross into France, head for Perpignan and its giant supermarket Ocean for wines, cheeses and snacks that are hard to get in Girona.

The following wall relief photos are from a tall residential building on the corner of C/Barcelona and Placa Poeta Marquina. The block is several storeys high with a La Caixa bank branch on the ground floor. I’ve walked past this place numerous times and glanced upwards admiring these large coloured decorative reliefs. 

It’s not unusual to find similar examples dotted around the city, particularly in the old town, but these stand out as fine examples. I’ve been unable to discover more about their origin, short of trying to ask someone who lives there.

The first appears to symbolise family with a single young child and its parents and grandparents, all in a group embrace. Such strong family bonds are still a big part of Catalan culture and daily life. Why the child stands atop of a crowned woman is slightly mystifying. My first thought was some royal connection but most Catalans aren’t keen on the Spanish monarchy-past or present. That said, the current King of Spain Felipe VI once held the title of Prince of Girona.

The next one down stretches up to the top and also requires further enquiries. Two young girls are standing either side of a tree (tree of life?). One is holding a small harp, the other appears to be the city coat of arms. Below their feet sits a deer. Digging into deer symbolism it typically means unconditional love, gentleness, grace and good luck. The part of the relief above the tree appears to look angelic, the part jutting out is perplexing. I’m sure there’s a story waiting to be told here.

The bottom two probably have something to do with the Battle of Girona, in June 1808, as  the year is easily definable. This occurred during the Peninsular War, part of the Napoleonic Wars. The French assault failed, being repulsed by city militia and low and behold, two battalions of Irish infantry in Spanish service. The person holding what appears to be a blunderbuss might be one of the militia perhaps.