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L’Escala Eats-Klova i Kava Restaurant

It’s the height of summer here in L’Escala, one of Costa Brava´s favourite summer destinations, and where we are lucky enough to enjoy our long summer break from Girona.

Many of Girona’s residential neighbourhoods resemble a ghost town in July and August as hordes of people decamp to the coast or the cooler mountain regions. And there’s a good reason why. The baking heat makes for an uncomfortable time, especially when we don’t have AC. Yes I know we could have had it installed but as a renter you never know how long you’re going to spend there, versus the expense.

So it continued on a yearly basis, but you can easily reach a beach about half an hours drive from Girona, someplace like St Feliu de Guixols would be the nearest. I always had fun trying to pronounce that town correctly, in Catalan.

But L’’Escala is a bit  further north up the coast and tourists have plenty to choose from when it comes to eating out. We tend to try to avoid a lot of places that offer overpriced standard fare but succumb when our holiday vibe visitors choose them because they have a sea view or look busy. 

If you’re looking for an alternative treat then you’ve got to change your mindset and do some internet digging. We’d heard about restaurant Klova i Kava on our local FB group that residents of this town post on. A family birthday beckoned so we thought let’s make a booking and go and try it out.

It’s a five minute drive out of town on the road towards Figueres, you pull off into a small strip of stores, a petrol station and food places.Nothing remarkable to speak of. The restaurant is perched between a tobacconist and a pool store. The utilitarian looking shop front doesn’t give much away. A few tables positioned outside, facing the busy road wouldn’t be my cup of tea. Plus it’s hot and we have an inside table booked.

There can’t be more than about a dozen tables, well spaced, within a contemporary decor and subtle touches here and there. A quick glance and the place is almost full with what appears to be just the one waitress. From the sounds the clientele is mostly Catalan.

The 25€ set lunch menu is brief and includes alluringly described meat and fish options (in English and French too). Wine is extra and we chose their house white wine. I had the mango and chicken salad to start with, followed by pork ribs Korean style. Both were delicious, well presented and my dining partners were getting buyers remorse after trying my ribs. Their enduring flavours meant I couldn’t  remember what I had for dessert. It was probably cheesecake, I always order that.

The one single chirpy and cheerful waitress was doing a stirling job with keeping everyone happy. A quick chat with her and we’re told that this enterprise is a co-operative and the chef is her husband. Full marks to a satisfying lunch and we added it to our mental bookmark.

Lunch for 3 with wine/soft drinks came to about 120€

Restaurant Klova i Kava, Ctra de Gi, 623, Km16, local 2, 17137 Viladamat, Girona

Mango and chicken salad

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Uncategorized

Girona and the Game of Thrones connection

The stunning medieval city of Girona, located in the Catalonia region of Spain, holds a unique place in the hearts of Game of Thrones fans. This picturesque town, with its rich history and beautifully preserved architecture, was chosen as one of the filming locations for the sixth season of HBO’s hit fantasy series.  

Girona provided the perfect backdrop for some of the most iconic locations, bringing George R.R. Martin’s world of Westeros to life.

Girona as Braavos, King’s Landing, and Oldtown.

In the world of Game of Thrones Girona’s streets, cathedrals, and plazas are transformed into multiple locations, representing the Free City of Braavos, parts of King’s Landing, and even the Citadel in Oldtown. Let’s examine the roles Girona played in Westeros and Essos.

1. Braavos

Girona is perhaps best known in Game of Thrones for standing in as Braavos, one of the Free Cities across the Narrow Sea. Many of Arya Stark’s storylines in Season 6 were filmed here, especially her time training with the Faceless Men at the House of Black and White. The intricate, narrow alleyways and medieval stone streets of Girona perfectly captured the labyrinthine atmosphere of Braavos.

Sant Pere de Galligants Monastery: This beautiful Romanesque monastery was used for Arya’s chase scene through the streets of Braavos in Season 6, Episode 8 (“No One”). The intense chase sequence between Arya and the Waif culminated in a dramatic fight, with Girona’s iconic architecture serving as the backdrop.

Passeig Arqueològic: Girona’s medieval walls and the Passeig Arqueològic walkway were used in several scenes set in Braavos. The blend of Gothic and Romanesque styles, coupled with its elevation, gave the perfect impression of an ancient city by the sea.

2. King’s Landing

Girona also stood in for parts of King’s Landing in several sequences, particularly in the scenes involving the Great Sept of Baelor and the city’s street life.

Girona Cathedral: One of the most striking locations in Girona, the Girona Cathedral, with its towering Baroque façade and sweeping staircase, became part of the scenery for King’s Landing. It was used for some of the Great Sept of Baelor scenes, providing a majestic backdrop to one of the capital’s most important buildings. The steps, in particular, were prominently featured including scenes involving Jaime Lannister and Margaery Tyrell’s walk to the Sept.

3. Oldtown and the Citadel

In Season 6, Game of Thrones introduced the city of Oldtown, home to the Citadel, the center of learning for Westeros’ maesters. Girona’s architecture was again called upon to portray this ancient and scholarly location.

Arab Baths (Banys Àrabs): The Arab Baths of Girona provided the atmospheric setting for scenes inside the Citadel. Samwell Tarly’s journey to become a maester brought him to this historical place. The Romanesque bathhouse, with its arches and serene environment, fit perfectly with the learned, introspective mood of Oldtown.

The Impact on Girona Tourism

Since its appearance on Game of Thrones Girona has become a must-visit destination for fans of the show. Many seek to walk the same cobblestone streets as Arya Stark, or climb the steps that lead to the (fictional) Great Sept of Baelor. 

Walking tours dedicated to the show guide visitors through the various filming locations scattered across the city. They provide context for the scenes shot there and give fans a deeper appreciation for the history and beauty of Girona.

The city, already known for its rich cultural heritage, experienced a boom in tourism following the show’s success. This brought fans from across the globe to explore the medieval architecture, stunning churches, and quaint streets that made Girona a perfect stand-in for several locales in Westeros and Essos.

 A Journey Through Time and Fantasy

Girona’s charm lies in its ability to transport visitors back in time, even without the presence of film crews. Its winding streets, historic buildings, and scenic vistas provide a sense of timelessness that Game of Thrones capitalized on. Whether you’re a fan of the show or simply a lover of history, Girona offers a unique blend of real-world beauty and the fantastical allure of Westeros.

In Girona, that magic lives on, nestled within its ancient walls, waiting for travelers to discover its cinematic secrets.

Girona Cathedral and steps

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Girona

12 Top Things To Do in Girona

Girona is a beautiful city in northeastern Spain, rich in history, culture, and scenic beauty. Here are some of the best things to do when visiting Girona:

  1. Explore the Old Town (Barri Vell.

Girona’s Old Town is a picturesque medieval area full of narrow cobblestone streets, historical buildings, and hidden corners. Highlights include:

   – Plaza de la Independencia: A vibrant square with cafes and restaurants.

   – Carrer de la Força: The main street in the Jewish Quarter (El Call), a maze of narrow alleys and historic sites.

2. Visit the Cathedral of Girona

   – The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Girona has the widest Gothic nave in the world and offers stunning views over the city from its steps. The interior is equally impressive with a famous tapestry, “The Creation Tapestry,” dating back to the 11th century.

3. Walk Along the City Walls (Passeig de la Muralla)

   – Take a stroll along the medieval walls that once protected the city. They offer spectacular views of Girona and the surrounding countryside. You can access different parts of the wall and walk along the ramparts for panoramic views.

4. Explore the Jewish Quarter (El Call)

   – One of the best-preserved medieval Jewish quarters in Europe, El Call is a fascinating area full of history. You can visit the Museum of Jewish History, which explores the heritage of Girona’s Jewish community before their expulsion in 1492.

5. Cross the Onyar River

   – Girona is famous for its colorful houses lining the Onyar River. There are several bridges to cross, but the most iconic is the Eiffel Bridge (Pont de les Peixateries Velles), designed by Gustave Eiffel before he built the Eiffel Tower. The view of the vibrant facades from the bridge is one of Girona’s most iconic sights.

6. Arab Baths (Banys Àrabs)

   – These 12th-century baths, inspired by Roman and Arabic design, offer a glimpse into Girona’s past. The central room is particularly impressive with its octagonal pool and columns.

7. Film Locations from Game of Thrones

   – Girona was used as a filming location for the hit series Game of Thrones. Fans can visit locations like the Cathedral steps (used in scenes featuring the Great Sept of Baelor) and the narrow streets of the Jewish Quarter (used as the streets of Braavos).

8. Indulge in Catalan Cuisine

   – Girona has a vibrant food scene. Try traditional Catalan dishes like escalivada (roasted vegetables), botifarra (Catalan sausage), and crema catalana. For a world-class experience, Girona is home to El Celler de Can Roca, a 3-Michelin-starred restaurant often considered one of the best in the world.

9. Museum of Cinema

   – This unique museum offers a fascinating look into the history of cinema, with exhibits on the early days of filmmaking, classic movies, and iconic directors.

10. Visit the Monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants

   – This Romanesque Benedictine monastery is now home to the Archaeology Museum of Catalonia, which showcases prehistoric and ancient artifacts from the region.

11. Day Trip to the Costa Brava

   – Girona is a great base for exploring the nearby Costa Brava, known for its beautiful beaches, coves, and charming seaside towns like Tossa de Mar and Cadaqués.

12. Fairs and Festivals

   – If you visit during late October, don’t miss the Fires de Sant Narcís, Girona’s largest festival with parades, music, fairs, and fireworks. Or the Temps de Flors in early May, a week-long flower festival.

Girona is a gem in the Catalonia region, combining history, art, and gastronomy into a memorable experience.

Houses along the River Onyar, Girona

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Girona Restaurants

L’Escala Eats-Restaurant Hostal d’Empuries, St Marti d’Empuries

Being an inland city, during the summer months Girona´s climate always seems to be  about five degrees hotter than here on the Costa Brava coast in l’Escala.. Our Girona neighbourhood, La Devesa is eerily quiet during July and August. Desolate and empty, a stark contrast to the coastal towns which are the opposite. On the plus side, parking is easier.

You may have noticed from previous blog posts that we’ve been bigging up this Costa Brava resort a lot recently. That’s because we’re lucky enough to have a small bolthole, a quiet retreat from Girona city that’s just a ten minute stroll to Playa Montgo. 

This part of L’Escala is a popular spot, a sheltered shallow cove with soft sand and a  pebbled shoreline. It’s well served with a handful of bars, restaurants and a beach bar (chiringuito) during the summer season. With three large camping sites nearby and day trippers, it’s somewhere we try to avoid in August as it gets too crowded.

There are less busier but equally charming beaches strung out along the stretch of coast between L’Escala and the tiny hamlet of St Marti d’Empuries. You share the wide footpath  (Passeig  Dr Pi i Llussa) with cyclists and the occasional tourist train. It hugs the dunes with periodic views of the coast and access to beaches like Platja del Rec and El Portixol.

At about the midway point you’ll notice the hostel, a two storey white washed edifice facing the sea. That simplistic minimalist white theme permeates inside.The hostel description belies its chic laid back charm, and the room prices. Boasting four stars, it’s open year round and includes an adjoining spa complex. 

It’s always wise to book ahead, it’s late June on a Sunday so we ask for a table on their terrace. The indoor dining area is fine but on a sunny day you want to be parked outside, and enjoy those far reaching views across the Bay of Roses. And of course a nice glass of something. 

Fine dining with fine prices, lunch for 4 with pre-lunch cocktails was just shy of 300€

I should also add that we’ve also tried the continental breakfast buffet here, (8 to 11 am) and you don’t need to be a hotel guest. At the time of writing the cost was 23€ per person. With plenty of tempting morsels like cold meats, cereals, homemade yoghurts, pastries and smoothies. My favourite was a pond green concoction with coconut.

Oh and if you’re in the mood for a chilled glass of Cava, just help yourself, it’s all included.There’s also a small menu of hot dishes so some of us went for the eggs benedict, available with bacon or salmon. Extra rasher of bacon or extra hollandaise sauce, no problem.

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Restaurants Girona

L’Escala Eats – Restaurant El Gotim 

The daily fixed price lunch menu is one of Spain’s better inventions and still going strong. Post-covid and adding in recent rises in inflation, it’s no surprise that today the price range seems to be between 15 – 20 euros, more at the weekends.

Considering it includes 3 home-cooked courses, bread and a single drink, it’s still good value. Some restaurants even place a whole bottle of wine on the table and dont mind how much you consume. Portion amounts and food quality do vary of course.

Ever curious in seeking new places to dine in, we found ourselves aimlessly wandering through L’ Escala’s fishing village (nucli antic). It’s about 1pm and not our usual time for lunch, we prefer a bit later. But we’ve just successfully concluded a visit to the local town hall (ajuntament). It was a minor matter but there’s no telling how such visits turn out. The ever presence of  ‘la ley de falta uno´ hangs over you like the sword of Damocles.. That’s the law of one thing missing and constantly haunts you, even when you double check what you need to take with you.

It can be something entirely trivial, as when I got caught out with passport photos that for this particular finicky functionary were the wrong size. This is bite your lip territory.

Anyway, a fine lunch and a glass of vino can help soothe tempers. 

Our careless haphazard approach brought us to the doors of EL Gotim, a generous few blocks from any beach eateries.. The daily menus are normally well displayed with prices, and in touristy locations like L’ Escala many are translated into English and French. Their lunch is 20 € and we enter, their first lunchtime customers.

The interior dining area is a long narrow bare stone arched affair with well spaced tables. Today’s offering has a choice of four starters (primers) such as;

Amanida de mango amb ametlla laminada (mango salad with laminated almonds)

Perbrots de piquillo farcits de brandada amb beixamel désparrecs (brandade stuffed peppers with asparagus bechamel sauce).

Seconds (segons) also has four choices, eg;

Melos de vedella (beef stew in a ratafia sauce)

Arros el Gotim (rice EL Gotim style, min. 2 people)

We both chose the stuffed peppers and mango salad for starters (photo below) and for seconds we both had the spinach cannelloni (canelones déspinacs). A well managed timely space between starters and main is something I like and they didn’t disappoint. Portions sizes are just right and the quality shines through. As we tuck into our seconds the place is filling up quickly.

Sadly, I often find the dessert options fairly predictable and at times a disappointing drop in quality after a good result with starters and mains. It’s like all the effort has gone into the main presentation and the final last bit lets it down. But, I’m a sucker for cheesecake (pastis de formatge) and this one bucked the trend and won the day.

Their menu includes a glass of wine or a mineral water, so if you do want to finish with a coffee, you could get away without forking out more than 50€ for two. I liked the place, the food , service and will return. El Gotim offers tasty, presentable, delicious Catalan dishes that are delightfully different.

Restaurant El Gotim, Carrer Puig Sureda, 18, 17130 L’Escala 

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Barcelona Girona

Too much tourism?

A bit of a touchy and controversial subject lately but maybe worthy of mentioning.

I’ve read about how overtourism was creating problems and discontent amongst locals in cities like Barcelona and further afield like in Malaga, southern Spain. 

The same feelings are even evident on the Balearic island of Ibiza, where tourist sector workers are finding it hard to find affordable apartments to rent. A recent large protest on the neighbouring island of Mallorca had large banners with ‘ Mallorca no es ven’ (Mallorca is not for sale). Strong stuff

Sadly other European cities are suffering also, like Athens and Venice. Lisbon too, but in that case it seems mostly to be all about the ‘golden visas’. Spain also has the same visa but they are withdrawing it soon. It basically allowed foreign visitors to live here by purchasing a property at a cost of about half million euros.

Working legally is another matter, but as always, money and good lawyers smooth out these wrinkles. I was never an expert in this field and always advised people to seek the correct legal advice. That in itself is never an easy process, recommendations do help and if English is spoken then even better. 

We´re lucky I suppose that we can lean on our kids where only Catalan or Spanish is spoken. Having a (native Catalan) friend or colleague to help out can be a handy alternative. How about if I only know Spanish? Yes, of course give it a try but a repetitive comment I come across a lot is that using Catalan makes getting things done a whole lot easier, smoother and less troublesome.

Having said all that above, if you really want to cover all the bases I’d go as far to advise people to get a second opinion. You’d be surprised how legal expert advice here can and does differ. 

Even in the mild-mannered environs of Girona there have been recent musings, including graffiti signs like ‘stop tourism’, ‘guiri go home’ and this one directed at cyclists ‘bikers go home ́. That’s something that I’ve never noticed before.

The word guiri is a colloquial reference to a foreigner and I’ve never felt it was a derogatory word, kind of neutral. Others may have a different opinion. The cyclist scene is something else, I’ve written about it briefly in the past and there´s no getting away from how it’s skewered local feeling. It’s been brewing for a long time. Many trace its roots to when the famous American rider Lance Armstrong was based here in the 90’s. 

However, we shouldnt forget that Catalans are also into cycling big time. Just walk around Girona and you’ll see plenty of bike shops, cyclist-centric cafes, as well as others that offer cycle tours and outings. 

Many nationalities choose to relocate to this region for a myriad of reasons and one focal point for the bad feeling is centred on the old town area. A common complaint I hear is that a majority of foreign cyclists who opt for longer stays remain insular and don’t seem to want to integrate with locals.

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Beaches

Bar Social Cer, L’Escala (& afternoon sun)

Bar Social Cer, L’Escala (& afternoon sun)

Being on the coast in L’Escala a lot more now, we’re always on the lookout for new places to drink or eat. It happens to be the start of spring and the Easter holidays have just ended. I’m wondering what’s open where I can bask in some warm afternoon rays.

Forget the old fishing village area, shame, as it has a few nice spots with far reaching sea views across the Bay of Roses. Working your way eastwards towards the modern sprawl that is Riells, the story is pretty much the same.

Just opposite the beachside statue of the little Prince (petit Principe) there’s La Basilic, popular amongst expat Europeans more than locals and La Mod, the latter more of a restaurant and happy to welcome diners with dogs. Both are close to the beach, some outdoor seating and sea facing. Again the absence of afternoon sun means I’m not tempted.

You really need to shift yourself over to the Port area. Not as lively as the fishing village (casc antic) area and bereft of any nightlife. Dominated by the ‘club nautic’ or sailing club there are a fair few restaurants facing the marina that feature below long swathes of low rise apartment blocks. A not untypical scene found at other Costa Brava club nautics. I think the architect must have reused the same plans at several beach locations!

So back to Bar Cer located midway down a residential street. Many small towns and villages here have a ‘Bar Social, buildings which are owned by the local authority and host cultural community events plus a bar. Bar Cer has a generous interior plus outdoor terrace/garden area. It’s functional, modern and bordering on boringly plain.

Our initial attraction came via a local FB post promoting a small market, barbecue and DJ music date held on a Sunday. 

Being a minority male within my female dominated dynamic I happily let the ladies shop while I supped on a vermouth, minded the dogs while the DJ did his thing. This idyll was only punctuated by periodic interruptions for more funds.

We’ve been back subsequently as a local English guy organises the odd quiz nights and karaoke, mostly off-season. Both activities attract the locals too and the food options are good, we liked their Americana burger. It does have that ‘community’ feel about it, your tourist or day visitor would most likely walk on past.

Bar CER Social, Carrer del Garbi, 6, L’Escala

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Girona

To build or not to build – Highs and lows of hiring a builder

To build or not to build – Highs and lows of hiring a builder

This post offers a brief insight into the murky and quirky world of local builders, at least a recap of our own experiences and a collection of thoughts from friends who have voiced similar opinions.

It’s a tricky subject even within your own native country, of picking a company that can offer what seems unattainable (at least in these parts) good price, good work and reliability. I’d settle for two out of three.

The local builder is often referred to as a paleta, a kind of jack of all trades, an all round builder that dabbles in and encompasses trades such as an electrician, plumber, heating engineer, carpenter, and maybe a few more. 

You could of course employ the individual trades if you have the stomach to do so, and the language capabilities and of course, the patience.

Just to recap, our small coastal hideaway in L’Escala needed refurbishment as it hadn’t been touched since flared trousers and jumbo collars were in fashion. White vans and pickups of all shapes and sizes whizz by that advertise ´reformas´a catch all phrase for building works.

That’s fine but where do you start in choosing a good reliable firm and getting some price quotes. Our first try was with the agent that sold us the house, he must be in the know. Cue Jordi, a local guy who dutifully appeared with notebook, tape measure and pen in hand.

We had quite a list, new bathroom, kitchen, floors, replacement doors, enough to give  any respectable builder a nice earner. Lets just add that you spend a lot of time with these individuals explaining what you want. The result, nada.

Moving on to building company number 2, recommended to us by our neighbour. Two young chaps turned up and we ran through the same spiel. Frantic notetaking is followed by the comment that we would need to move out. How long do we ask? Oh, two to three months. Okay but this is my main residence, where do I decamp to? This is looking like a non-starter. But I wait  in anticipation of an estimate. The result, nada.

I’m starting to feel a bit despondent but I will try again. This time it’s a local company, I’ve seen their shop premises in town  and made an appointment. Here we go again, notes are taken, list of jobs we want done. The result, yes, you’ve guessed, nada. What’s happening?

We´d heard that most builders here are super busy and it appears they can pick and choose which jobs they want to take on. I can understand, as during such visits (July) we were told start times would be around October. I also understand that I might not get a quote from the odd company, but three in a row. Are they so arrogant, uncaring, and not bothered?

Theories abound but I still need to find someone. A chance encounter with a local friend results in a builder who talks the talk. I decided to try him out with a few small jobs like a TV wall mount that I’ve already bought. The instructions may as well be in Chinese but he makes it look like child’s play and the price is good. I’m eager to get the bathroom redone and his answer is yes, no problem.

Post covid a lot of building material prices have shot through the roof, plus the wait is weeks not days. Ordered in August, delivered in October, and then some ordered items we got are missing. This is Leroy Merlin, a large multinational chain. My builder tells me we must complain in the strongest terms, as this is the only way to get things done.

If this is what it’s like for future projects I’m dreading the thought of how the other major works like the kitchen are going to go. That ultimately went to Ikea and may end up in part two of this saga.

My take on all of this. These paletas/builders are a law unto themselves. Jobs are started, things are done, materials appear on site then the workmen disappear into thin air. Getting to the finish line on big jobs becomes painfully slow, requiring constant chasing up. Not just us, as I’ve noticed these same patterns occurring with our next door neighbours who’ve had similar stuff done.

The more unscrupulous types look at us foreigners and see euro signs. I’ve had friends say quotes they’ve had have differed by many hundreds of euros for identical work. 

Categories
Girona

Flower power – Girona Temps de Flors

It’s that time of the year again, Girona’s city wide annual display of flowers. But it’s not just a floral-fest-themed show spanning 9 days.

While flower displays are the main pull strung out amongst numerous locations (handy one page map available from tourist office), there are plenty more spots that host an eclectic mix of abstract art displays. Many may have a tenuous link to anything connected to flowers, but perhaps that’s what makes it so popular and interesting.

It’s that popularity over the last decade and a half at least that has really put Girona on the map, as visitors flock here daily in their thousands, causing bottlenecks within Girona´s myriad maze of  mediaeval narrow streets. Last year they did the sensible thing and created a series of one way thoroughfares.

The bulk of what is essential viewing is undoubtedly within the old town area, and includes the Arab Baths, the steps of Girona’s St Mary Cathedral and St Felix church. The latter seems to be a kind of benchmark, prompting many a comment, “oh last year’s display was better”. It is a large blank canvas that must involve a lot of creative imagination, and of course planning.

I well remember just after Game of Thrones was filmed in Girona, the long stairway below the church of St Marti had a splendid Thrones themed display. What many may not realise is that this is the only chance to peer into small private courtyards where owners show off their own ideas. Also, if you find yourself near Placa Catalunya there’s an old air raid shelter from the time of the Spanish Civil War which opens during this time.

One of my past favourites was the roofless remains of a former cinema in the back streets behind Girona city town hall (ajuntament). It had some very dark, abstract, thought provoking ínstallations like hanging chairs and sombre mood music. Sadly it’s been redeveloped and turned into offices.

With food and drink stops you would need the best part of a whole day to get to see it all, as popular locations have constant queues. Comfortable footwear is recommended as most of the old town streets are cobbled and parking is difficult.

Restaurants will have a special menu for the festival, no surprises that prices do increase, but everywhere is packed. 

Flower display on the front steps of St Feliu church, Girona

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Girona Restaurants Uncategorized

Food for thought-Girona gastronomy

There’s never a dull moment when tucking into the local grub, part of Girona´s charms and a big pull for visitors. 

It’s an ever changing food scene as a constant stream of new entrants try their arm at offering their twist on Catalan cuisine, or something entirely different. Perhaps the strangest I’ve seen was Catalan/Chilean. Unexpectedly now no more.

This can be a high stakes game, as longevity is hard to achieve and failure is common and unforgiving. The financial outlay is significant. I well remember walking past failed places that appeared expensively fitted out only to have it all ripped out and replaced with the new owner’s tastes.

I’m away a lot these days but friends in the city keep me updated when they venture out to try new Girona restaurants. I can recollect great dining experiences at places like Mimolet, Nu and Divinum, still going as far as I can tell. All three are at the upper range but well worth it when comparing with similar fare in the UK.

However, our finances could never stretch to the three Michelin starred Can Roca but it remains on the bucket list. Last time I checked the average bill for two including wine was about 500 euros. Situated in a largely working class plain looking neighbourhood, it does not strike you as the place to have a restaurant of such stature. I’d been told it is because this is where they grew up and their parents ran a local no frills restaurant.

Their culinary tentacles have stretched out to encompass more spin offs within Girona, like their Hotel Chocolat and restaurant Normal. A touch more affordable than their flagship eatery, seemingly well booked. Again, a friend who dined there said it didn’t live up to the hype. 

The youngest brother Jordi, who’s the pastry chef at Can Roca has opened both a posh ice cream parlour (Rocambolesc) and an upmarket version (Rocambolesc  Bikineria) of what’s locally known as a Bikini, basically a toasted ham and cheese sandwich.

As a piece of idle gossip, we did bump into Jordi once, at a perennial favourite haunt of ours, Cull de Mon in nearby Vall de Sant Daniel, definitely worth a visit. Chef and owner Lofti fuses Catalan dishes with a Moroccan twist with his Catalan partner. 

Kudos to the three brothers as you’ve got to make hay while the sun shines I guess. Locals, as far as I can guess, are proud of their successes but remain typically nonplussed and unfussy in their admiration. 

Other quality Catalan chefs are forging equally fine reputations and there’s a perceptible trend (in my opinion) that newer restaurant openings are catering for the upper end. Is that a good move, I’m not sure. Girona´s cost of living is high, always has been and affluent expat numbers appear to be on the up. 

Gironas’ beguiling lure as an attractive, safe and comfortable place to move to and live has gradually increased over the last decade.Just perusing the FB Girona groups gives an indication of the pull this area has. It was what brought our young family here back in 2006, when its charms were less publicised. 

Of course where food is concerned local Catalan families like to eat well and expect good quality. Traditional farmhouse type ‘masia’ restaurants that dot the surrounding countryside still do a roaring trade at weekends, especially on Sundays. Our favourites were La Barca in nearby Bescano, Can Joan in Canet d’Adri and Can Xifra in Cartella.

Brits who like their ´meat and two veg’ would fit right in here, with hearty home cooked Catalan fare. The slight difference is the almost total absence of the ‘two veg’ part. Main meat and fish based dishes are usually light on any further additions.

Just remember not to rush things, as a lot of the enjoyable dining is spread across a few lazy hours. Good conversation and good food are key elements of ‘going with the flow’.

Meat and seafood Paella