Author: gironapete

I like to loosely group L´Escala into three areas or zones. They’re all nice in their own way, it just depends on what you’re looking for.

At one end there’s the peace and tranquillity of Montgo, with its neat little sandy cove, Cala Montgo, a great choice for a family beach day. (playa Montgo). At the other end is the casc antic or old town, which has a couple of much smaller beaches, rocky outcrops suitable for  lounging and a greater number of bars, shops and restaurants.

In the middle you have Riells, a more modern creation with a much longer and wider beach and surrounding streets, better geared up for summer tourists with families. From here you can enjoy a 15-20 minute stroll along the Passeig Maritim, a wide walkway that hugs the coast, up to the old town. It’s quite rocky along here and not really promoted as a bathing area but there are fine views across the bay to distant towns like Empuriabrava and Roses.

Once you’ve reached the old quarter you can either keep walking with the sea to your right, or veer off into the maze of surrounding streets.  There’s a much greater variety of shops, bars and restaurants within a very walkable area so take your time. It’s also where you’ll find Cerveseria (pub) Frankfurt. Plain looking and down to earth I guess it’s trying to imitate a German bierkeller which it does to a degree.

We liked the cosy looking wooden booths spread out along one side, the walls decorated with kitschy  looking pictures and paraphernalia, somewhat adding to its Germanic feel. I’m not totally convinced but the bare stone walls,and the long mahogany coloured counter could be downtown Bavaria-if only for a fleeting moment.

Being English we’re more aware of the large round Guinness sign and plump for a pint of the dark stuff (6€). The laminated food menu is a masterclass in simplicity, tapas dishes to share, hot and cold baguettes, frankfurters/hot dogs and burgers with a variety of sides and toppings customised to your taste.

This isn’t a gourmet burger as such, think more like slightly fancy fast food. Prices aren’t over the top, my Angus 200 gram burger was 7.85€ with just an additional 1€ for extra onion, tomato and lettuce. One of us had the blood/black sausage hot dog- a bit different. Buns and bread rolls are the usual soft, pappy, tasteless kind, the three tapas dishes were what we expected. 

If that hasn’t hit the spot there are of course desserts, and we chose a pastis de pastanaga (carrot cake) and a pastis de xocolate (chocolate cake). 

Verdict. Sadly no thigh slapping lederhosen or frauleins to be seen but on our second visit, a Thursday, they had live music, a nice twist. On a tiny side note they didn’t mind our two well behaved dogs so that’s always a plus for us.

Final tally for 3, a bit higher than anticipated as the Guiness was going down too well, was 77€.

It’s mid May and we have visitors who have decided they want to visit Girona, which is all fine and dandy but today’s date is when the city wide annual flower festival, Temps de Flors begins.

But this isn’t just some ode to flower arranging and twee looking containers, it’s a smorgasbord of displays, from normal to wacky abstract. If you live here, especially within the enclaves of the old town areas then you either hunker down for nine days of constant milling crowds or, decamp the city.

The result is that such hordes must have somewhere to eat and drink, hence the almost futile task of seeking a restaurant booking on this of all days. It could prove to be easier to have met the pope. In our case, no pope-pun intended, god loves a tryer and we score a result with a 3pm booking at Draps.

Slap bang in the hustle and bustle of Girona´s old quarter, amongst numerous other eateries which includes restaurant Normal, being just opposite, another addition to the Roca brothers stable of fine dining. 

Draps occupies a corner plot and it’s been here for ages but I´ve never tried it. Various family members have and have spoken of it in mainly good terms. As we wait outside for the rest of our group the whiff of curry hits my senses from the Indian restaurant a few doors down. I could’ve been easily  persuaded to go there instead. We also observe the futile attempts of hungry people being turned away, too many chasing too few seats.

Table ready, we go inside and upstairs to a large round table at the far end. An immediate impression is how narrow it is. I guess the temptation is to cram in as many tables as possible but it adds to the cosiness, hence its popularity with couples. Bare stone walls are the backdrop to a warm wooden decor.

At these busy times and large throughput of diners means that it´s  a set menu, their Temps de Flors offering is 33€ and we´re asked to choose our starter, main and desserts all in one go.The feather in the cap is a welcoming glass of Cava (included), Catalonia’s admirable answer to Italian Prosecco. And very nice it is too, you can buy it across a range of prices, even the 2€ version is quaffable when making a mimosa.

For starters I chose the pumpkin soup decorated with shavings of dried cured ham, which while I enjoyed the crispy bits I also got some chewy fatty croutons too. It also reminded me that whenever I order soup it invariably gets served warm, rarely hot.

A friend ordered tuna tartar (photo below) and they made a jolly good job of serving dishes so we all ate at the same time. Main dishes included a choice of duck confit, red snapper, sole or steak, which was my choice. Should have gone for the fish as my steak was passable, but redemption came in the form of a fine homemade cheesecake for dessert.

I conveniently lost count of the total glasses of wine we all had, refills were plentiful, and staff more attentive, as the place was emptying.

Verdict. When faced with sheer weight of numbers it´s fair to accept that you’ll be getting a fair meal, and have to pay a bit above what constitutes ´normal times’. It also often leaves you feeling like trying it on another occasion. Final bill, not much was added to the set price, so it came to 35€ per person.

Draps, Carrer Cort Real, 2, 17004 Girona

It’s early March and there’s still not much open in our L´Escala neck of the woods, Montgo. Two beachside restaurants look to be open Friday to Sunday, Oreig and Can Miquel. The latter has a low-rise 3 star hotel attached to it. We stopped off recently for a morning coffee which took ages before we got them. No surprise really if you look at their online reviews for speed of service and treatment.

Down the hill from us the modern touristic sprawl of Riells with its white-washed houses doesn’t look that exciting either. Its beachfront pedestrian promenade is eerily dormant. Just a stone’s throw away the main street Avinguda de Montgo has the usual array of retail, real-estate places, bars and restaurants, but subdued activity. Come summer it’s bustling but seems boringly uninviting right now.

If you’re seeking a slightly facer pace then you need to head for the old fishing village area, Casc Antic. It has a more varied mix of independent shops and plenty of bolt holes for a drink or snack. Wander down side streets and see where they take you. More people means a buzzier vibe especially at the weekends, as many congregate around the couple of smaller beaches here. 

One such sandy oasis is La Platja where Bar Bikini sits amongst several well placed eateries, close by to a favourite of ours, Grop. Bar Bikini has a narrow corner setting, a cosy interior and a larger outdoor terrace where we sat. It’s another contender for a sundowner spot or people watching.

The bubbly waitress served us a bottle of their house white wine (16€) and we began to survey the food menu. It’s a simple mix of tapas, salads, hot and cold sandwich options which includes pastrami-which you don’t see often. So we ordered some sharing tapas plates, a goat’s cheese salad and a pastrami sandwich. All fine but not enough pastrami.

The waitress is starting to break into good English and the inevitable questions surface covering our respective lives and reasons for being here. I’ve been in bars where the grilling becomes too private for my English reservedness. I often feel like I’ve given away too many personal details. The kicker is when I’m with the kids and the talk oscillates between English, Spanish and Catalan. 

Eyebrows are raised and incredulous grins become the norm. The gift of languages is a gift that keeps giving. It’s also something which would have been harder to achieve (for our kids) had we stayed in the UK. It also makes for humorous scenarios when we overhear locals talking about us-thinking we don’t understand. You should see their faces when they realise the opposite is true, and the kids’ put downs are sweet revenge.

Food consumed we´re beginning to feel the drop in temperature as evening looms, it’s time to go.

Verdict. Bar Bikini managed to satisfy our thirst and hunger, a commendable food outpost if simplicity is your bag. There are however many competing bars around which makes choosing a bit harder. I was additionally impressed by their interior lighting, long low hanging light cloches adding an original touch. 

Cold, windy, wintery January days are not the ideal scenario that instils a desire to venture out and have a seaside lunch. But never underestimate a daughter’s persistence. So it was that we ventured out to Calella de Palafrugell in anticipation of finding suitable shelter and sustenance.

A perennial favourite of ours, this small chic Costa Brava town is a magnet for well healed summer visitors both foreign, Spanish and Catalan, eager for a quiet vacation. This is not the place for cheap eats and high rise hotels. Property here is in the price range that particularly attracts affluent weekend looking retreat Barcelonians.

These former fishing villages are booked solid summertime but out of season they become so quiet that it prompts a second look if you see anyone on the streets. 

Open eateries are few and far between during the winter downtime but once we reached the picturesque stretch of seafront we noticed restaurant La Vela almost full.

At 2.30 pm this was the ideal striking time and an empty table caught our eye. Swift action is the name of the game as other passers-by are your competition. We’re in and our two dogs are not a problem. We sat in their enclosed outdoor terrace, their indoor areas had the patio heaters- lucky them.

Looking around the terrace the seating room is quite tight so I guess there is no room for them, shame as it could do with it being a few degrees warmer. No real problem as I’m not taking my jacket off. Overhead heaters could be a solution, just saying.

On the plus side their menu is not several pages long, so we chose a few sharing plates and I ordered a staple favourite, a goats cheese salad. Glancing around surreptitiously quite a few fellow diners were eating the seafood rice dish, at 18€ each. Served in a deep bowl, hot and  steamy in a rich sauce, a comforting foil to today’s ambient temperature. I immediately get buyers remorse.

It’s so appealing that two of our party decided to plump for this same dish. It appears to be a clear case of comfort food versus my healthier salad option. I quickly reassure myself that my body is better rewarded with leafy greens.

Having consumed our chosen dishes the burning question of desserts is now upon us.  I rarely see anything different from the usual repertoire of crema catalana, lemon sorbet, chocolate coulant or my favourite, cheesecake. I´m pretty sure most dessert options are bought in, rarely homemade creations. 

This time there’s bunyols de xocolate (sweet dough balls filled with chocolate then fried) and recuit de drap amb mel (an artisanal dessert usually made with goats cheese,reminiscent of English cottage cheese, plus honey. I decline but the other three are swayed.

It almost feels like they’re an afterthought, and judging by the prices sometimes the mark-up must be good. We order warming coffees before venturing out back into biting January winds. The idea of a post-lunch seaside stroll is quickly forgotten.

Verdict. A safe port in a storm, a welcome wintery shelter that would no doubt be better enjoyed in sunnier times. Shame it doesn’t have more fish or seafood based dishes like a comforting fish stew.

Final bill for 4, which included 2 bottles of house white wine (16€ ea.) was 156€

Rupia is one of many small Catalan villages that you can easily speed past on your way to coastal resorts like Estartit or L’Escala. I must have passed this way hundreds of times and thought little about it.

After all there’s not much to look at when driving, just a small car garage and a lonely set of traffic lights, that’s because the village sits astride the main road. Luckily for craft beer lovers there’s a trendy micro-brewery / bar called Dos Kiwis that also has a food truck. We’ve stopped here a few times, the beers on offer are a mix of frothy fruit flavoured IPA’s and lagers, all relatively strong. The food’s another matter, I’ll do a separate review of this place.

We’ve never ventured to look further but this time it’s different, as an old friend is doing a Sunday afternoon DJ spot at what appears to be the only village bar as far as I can tell. Aptly named Bar de Rupia. The well kept village has visitor parking, useful as some of these mediaeval villages are riddled with narrow streets and car restrictions.

Safely parked we slowly ambled along the quiet streets, curiously admiring the cute mix of village house styles, large and small. Some of the stone built ones look very old with tiny windows. It even has a small grocery store.

We must be getting closer as wafting cool blues music pervades the afternoon sky. Bar Rupia looks over a small square surrounded by large imposing residences, no doubt lending a good acoustic touch. It’s close to 1pm and business is brisk, with no sight of an empty outdoor table. It’s a bright sunny spring day and sitting al fresco is the prime objective. 

Our friend’s DJ spot is in full swing, set back far enough from the bar so the music is background and non-intrusive. As we chat away a table becomes vacant, we’re in. A quick visual scan of the other patrons and they look like locals. I’m beginning to wonder why I’ve never heard about this place and like what I see, and pick up their one page clipboard food menu (in Catalan). 

These lazy Sunday afternoon outings are what tapas is all about and we order some snails (12€), calamari with wasabi mayo (9€) and xoricets (5.70€), small spicy sausages in a cider sauce. A small selection of much bigger dishes are also on offer and a takeaway menu too. 

Choices are a variety of typical Catalan fare and prices are not over the top at all. Dishes we ordered were plentiful and the calamari a hit, crunchy batter with the wasabi mayo a tasty kick.

It’s starting to feel toasty as our table is bathed in direct sun, thankfully there are a few large sun umbrellas. Additional tables and chairs are quickly provided as a steady stream of new customers arrive.

If you’re looking for tasty no frills food or just a slow relaxing drink, in a cute village setting away from the hustle and bustle, then Bar Rupia is surely worth a look.

I must walk past or near to this place nearly everyday as part of my dog walking routine. It’s one of many restaurants that hibernate during the windy winter months, reawakening at easter.

Except for some low-slung roadside shrubs, the long range views are eye-pleasing. The recent removal of a long abandoned, concrete built, graffiti plastered beach bar has improved matters.

Just metres away from the beach it’s a perfect spot for one of those long, take-your-time lunches that we enjoy. Or just as welcoming for a morning coffee or sunset drink. The wide, roomy terrace has weather protection and a canopy, useful as it can get blowy here.

The hoarding above displaying its name, Cheers Playa, looks shabby and unloved in comparison to its neat interior. Still, forgetting the old adage of never judging a book etc we ventured forth one sunny Sunday afternoon.

The first obstacle upon entering is our two small dogs, in the absence of any ‘dogs are welcome’ signage it’s a recurring question that gets asked. Thankfully it’s rarely a problem with outdoor terraces, and even indoors-’as long as they’re well behaved’ being the usual anecdote. In contrast the restaurants in Girona are by and large less accepting.

On our Sunday lunchtime visit in early May we were offered a variety of table locations on the terrace, settling on a large, round, ample sized, corner table. Peeking further in, the interior is light, spacious and uncluttered, crisp white tablecloths de rigueur.

We began to peruse the menu, thankfully it wasn’t a long one, and were quickly distracted by the weekend 3-course set menu at 22€ (including bread, water and glass of wine/small beer).

A quick rundown:

Starters, a choice of 4, mussels, goats cheese salad, garlic prawns or beef carpaccio.

Seconds, again a choice of 4, pork tenderloin, veal loin, Salmon or seafood paella.

I opted for the goat’s cheese salad which I choose quite often, ensuring my fix of greens. Depending on where we dine I find it differs widely in quality and in choice of ingredients added to the obvious goats cheese and salad leaves, this one was an 8/10.

The same opinion applies to paella, my second’s choice, as there are so many ways to cook it.

Service was swift, genuinely friendly and fuss-free. The food presentation and quality were impressive, and the desserts were hitting the right notes too. I’d return for sure if there weren’t so many other local places I’d still like to try.

Final bill, for 4, with extra coffees and drinks took us to 116€